On a sunny day, after a walk in Hyde Park, there are few better places to put the world to rights than an outdoor table at Angelus (the refurbished pub’s interior isn’t quite as inviting, with red banquettes, dark-wood panelling and a boudoir-like cocktail bar lending a slightly dated vibe). There’s nothing retro about Thierry Tomasin’s creative dishes. Simple yet sublime, a clear cucumber gazpacho was notable for its delicate flavour underpinned by a vinegary tang. More complex in flavour, we loved the juicy texture of poached salmon partnered with creamy beetroot purée.
Mains delivered star quality. A crisp-skinned seared sea bream fillet, surrounded by light lemongrass broth, was crowned with crisp-fried rice noodle rösti – a tasty play on South-east Asian flavours. Pineapple millefeuille teamed with passionfruit jelly and star anise ice-cream provided a fitting finale. Prices are eye-wateringly high, even for the all-day brasserie choices; however, the set menu (available until 6pm) is excellent value and decent carafes of wine that won’t break the bank are available. Service is as smooth as silk.