Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
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Time Out says
Fri Jul 20 2012
Its location just north of Hyde Park, within earshot of the stables in the mews alongside, makes Angelus an appealing lunch spot, yet on our visit there was just one other couple eating. The dark wooden panelling, brown leather banquettes and red velvet drapes of this former pub add to a somewhat heavy atmosphere, and there’s a gloomy cocktail bar to the rear.
A choice of three menus – an all-day brasserie selection of brunch and pricey snacks (£11 for a cheese toastie), a fancy carte and a good-value set menu (with freshly baked bread, coffee and petits fours included) – is available until 6pm. While service can be over-attentive to the point of intrusive, chef Thierry Tomasin’s cooking is perfectly judged; his light, lovely dishes do much to lift the mood. Asparagus with poached egg might have been rich, but the hollandaise was just sharp enough to create a balanced, elegant starter; salmon goujons were delicate, lightly battered slices with a wonderfully punchy tartare sauce. Own-made gnocchi with spring vegetables, top-notch goat’s cheese and toasted hazelnuts made a beautiful medley. An evening visit might be more fun – but it won’t come cheap.
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