On a sunny day, after a walk in Hyde Park, there are few better places to put the world to rights than an outdoor table at Angelus (the refurbished pub’s interior isn’t quite as inviting, with red banquettes, dark-wood panelling and a boudoir-like cocktail bar lending a slightly dated vibe). There’s nothing retro about Thierry Tomasin’s creative dishes. Simple yet sublime, a clear cucumber gazpacho was notable for its delicate flavour underpinned by a vinegary tang. More complex in flavour, we loved the juicy texture of poached salmon partnered with creamy beetroot purée.
Mains delivered star quality. A crisp-skinned seared sea bream fillet, surrounded by light lemongrass broth, was crowned with crisp-fried rice noodle rösti – a tasty play on South-east Asian flavours. Pineapple millefeuille teamed with passionfruit jelly and star anise ice-cream provided a fitting finale. Prices are eye-wateringly high, even for the all-day brasserie choices; however, the set menu (available until 6pm) is excellent value and decent carafes of wine that won’t break the bank are available. Service is as smooth as silk.
4 Bathhurst Street
|Opening hours:||Meals served 10am-11pm Mon-Sat; 10am-10pm Sun|
|Transport:||Tube: Lancaster Gate|
|Price:||Main courses £20-£32. Set meal (noon-6pm) £20 2 courses, £25 3 courses|
|Do you own this business?|
Average User Rating
5 / 5
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It was a good visit, but unfortunately we were not blown away by Angelus. The main reason was that meat of the main course (beef cheek confit) was not tender at all. In fact, it was so chewy, that we had to leave half of the stake on the plate. Maybe we were just unlucky with the cut. It also came as a surprise that the restaurant was half empty on a Friday night at 8.30pm. That said, the wines suggested by the restaurant were really good, and we thought that the service level was very high.
Fabulous little location, can't be beaten after a stroll in Hyde Park and convenient next to Lancaster Gate tube. Stunning set dinner menu, and reasonable wines. We had a prawn brochettes, lamb and delicious strawberry vodka soufflé.. Pure comfort food, charming service we'll be back. A favourite new haunt!