Assaggi

Time Out says

Wed Oct 17 2012

It’s some years since Assaggi was the hottest restaurant in London but, while tables are easier to secure, dining here remains a deservedly popular treat. The off-duty Notting Hill vibe and above-a-pub setting make it as well suited to long lunches as cosy romantic dinners. Decor is simple, with white walls, an old wooden floor, and colour coming from a spectacular flower arrangement and picture frames covered with bold fabric.

Every meal begins with oil-smeared pane carasau and a couple of squares of focaccia. The wine list is brief but treat-packed; the cheapest white – Sardinian nuragus at £22.95 – is a reliable winner; spend more and you’ll be rewarded with corresponding quality.

The menu is much as it always has been, varying a little with the seasons but including perennials such as tagliatelle with herbs and walnuts, and grilled veal chop. Specials on our latest visit included john dory fillet with crushed potatoes and the slightly intrusive, bitter tang of spinach. We loved the slender finger of ricotta and herb crespelle cloaked in cream sauce and grilled to toasty perfection. Unfussy but well-executed desserts also tend to the classic: flourless chocolate torte, bavarese with espresso, a cheesecake.

Service is friendly but unobtrusive – regulars, however, are treated like old friends.