Time Out says
Tue Nov 30 1999
The appeal of the Benihana chain lies in its ‘food as event’ concept. All hot dishes are prepared on a teppan: a large hot-plate at centre stage on each table. On Sunday lunchtimes particularly, when hoards of families arrive, cooking becomes theatre. First, there’s an explosion of fire as the teppan is cleaned. Our chef started with an onion, which soon became a volcano and then a steam train. The rice was a beating heart, the chicken a caterpillar. Salt and pepper pots did somersaults around our heads before landing on top of the chef’s hat. It’s a natty way of charging a lot for what is essentially a pretty unremarkable stir-fry. The sushi is distinctly average too. As for puddings, green tea ice-cream was overpowering; wasabi ice-cream was even more unpleasant (proof that just because something can be done, it doesn’t mean it should). Still, service is impeccably friendly and helpful, and you won’t leave feeling like you’ve had a bad time – though you might think you’ve paid too much for such food.
Comments & ratings