Formerly a shabby local called the Bridge, this pub has been spruced up with a resolutely on-trend ‘junk shop chic’ look – birdcages, charity shop paintings and other vintage stuff. If as much effort went into the food, the owners would be on to a winner.
Yet despite the £180 champagne and a massive cocktail list, we reckon the Betsy Smith is all fur coat and no knickers: an apt description for some of the scantily clad punters too.
The menu covers all bases (breakfasts, nachos, burgers and bistro dishes like spaghetti with clams), including a long list of pizzas from the wood-fired oven. The pizzas are the best bet, and are reasonably priced; the toppings may be more notable for their quantity than quality, but after a few drinks, they’ll do.
The drinks are predictably ‘kerazee’ cocktails served in teacups and teapots to share. The Jaffa is served with a floating ‘Jaffa Cake’ garnish while the ‘Relish the Thought’ brings together honey-roasted parsnip pureé, caramelised red onion relish and a dolcelatte cheese garnish. Sadly, there’s no such imagination with regards to the beers, with only some leaden lagers on show.