Over in Kansas, they take their barbecues seriously. The owner of Bodean’s came from the smoke-pit capital of the USA to show London how it’s done, and seven years and five branches on, we can still say this is the best barbecue in the city.
The Soho branch is our favourite for its street-level ‘deli’: a more casual arrangement where you walk in, order at the counter and tuck into a pared-down menu that omits some of the more superfluous choices – you don’t go to Bodean’s for enchiladas. It’s all about the ribs, the pulled pork, the half chickens and the ‘burnt ends’ of beef brisket, smoked and slow-grilled to uncommon tenderness and served with the (inevitably) secret sweet and piquant sauce.
Vegetarians should keep walking – there’s nothing to see here. A bonus is that the formerly dreary choice of beer has been updated; in addition to Coors Light and Sol, you can now find the likes of Sierra Nevada’s ales, although they’re not available in all branches.