Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
Rate this
Time Out says
Thu Oct 18 2012
Part of the joy of Brunswick House Café lies in its setting: a lone Georgian mansion, marooned amid a tangle of A-roads and modern high-rise blocks near Vauxhall station. It shares its premises with architectural salvage company Lassco, whose finds furnish the bar and dining room – a beguiling jumble of church pews, chandeliers, antique tables and maritime flags, with price tags attached.
If the decor is all about excess, the kitchen favours simplicity, with a daily changing one-page menu and a focus on seasonal ingredients: spring lamb sweetbreads with bacon and kohlrabi, perhaps, or a feather-light soufflé of new season asparagus, sprinkled with pea shoots and chives. Standards are high, though portions can be on the small side, so it’s wise to order a few plates to share. A short but thoughtful wine list offers plenty by the carafe, while the cocktails are top-notch: old-fashioned sazeracs, sours and negronis, mixed with a practised hand.
Come the weekend, the emphasis shifts to sturdy brunches (Old Spot bacon and egg butties, kippers on sourdough toast), which draw a loyal following; whenever you’re planning to visit, it’s best to book ahead.
Comments & ratings