Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
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Time Out says
Mon Oct 8 2012
We were surprised to be told by our sparky, smartly turned-out waitress that Casa Malevo means ‘house of the nasty man’: there’s nothing nasty about this little restaurant. Notwithstanding wall-mounted monochrome pictures of gauchos and a soundtrack of melancholy accordion and violin, the place feels like a continental brasserie, its dark bentwood furniture nicely spaced around a central bar – but the food is pure Latin America. From the good-value set lunch, we tucked into an empanada whose crisp, flaky pastry encased an unctuous mix of sweetcorn, shallots and mozzarella; a delicious rump steak (all steaks are imported from Argentina, hence, due to EU restrictions, served off the bone) with slab-sized chips and a couple of interesting Argentinian sauces; and ‘flan casero’ (like crème caramel) with dulce de leche. On a return visit, we might finish with ‘cheese of the day’ with membrillo and oatcakes. Our à la carte choices were even better: British lamb chops grilled slowly to tenderness in their own fat; thick but exquisitely soft beef carpaccio given fruitiness by lemon and lively green olives; and a handsomely dressed salad of rocket, garlic, onions, red pepper and parmesan shavings. That name? It’s just a famous tango.
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