Chin Chin Laboratorists
© Rob Greig
Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Fri Oct 19 2012
On any Sunday, some of London’s most highly regarded haute cuisine chefs can be found seeking, er, inspiration at this cramped, crazy spot where staff in white lab coats freeze ice-cream and sorbet to order using liquid nitrogen. The daily-changing flavours are churned in a row of KitchenAid mixers and the billowing clouds that spill over the counter make fun viewing. You then choose toppings from the range of wacky sprinkles (grilled white chocolate, green tea peanut brittle, caramelised pretzels) or classic sauces (chocolate, raspberry, salted caramel), though staff will advise on ideal matches.
Recipes are carefully conceived – even vanilla is anything but plain, made with caramelised unrefined cane sugar and Pondicherry vanilla beans. Proper dark chocolate, containing 80% couverture, is a paragon. Novelty of the day was truffle popcorn ice-cream, made by infusing finely chopped fresh white truffle in the custard base – it worked, despite a distinct savoury edge. We marvelled at the creaminess of dairy-free barbecued pineapple sorbet, an elegant ice more at home in a fine dining restaurant than the middle of Camden Market. Presumably one of those famous chefs has ‘borrowed’ that idea already too…
Chin Chin Laboratorists 49-50 Camden Lock Place