Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Tue Jun 26 2012
London dining doesn’t get much camper than China Tang. Sir David Tang’s flamboyant take on Chinese design (bold colours, shiny woods, giant paintings of carp) has met its match in the art deco temple that is the Dorchester, creating the perfect subterranean scene in which to be seen. Everything – including international sugar daddies with sexy dates half their age – is gilded and lacquered to within an inch of its life.
The food is mostly Cantonese, with roasted meats, stir-fries and clay-pot dishes all offered: using much higher quality meat than most Chinatown joints. Yet while the decor is splendiferous, the food is a mixed bag.
Char siu (deeply rich roast pork splashed with Shaoxing wine) was divine, but the roast duck had sadly soggy skin. And at prices this steep, beef with pepper should be more than just slivers of dull meat accompanied by a few grinds from a pepper mill.
To keep its globe-trotting clientele well watered, China Tang’s wine list has a larger than average number of by-the-glass choices. A grüner veltliner was pleasantly sharp when combined with the sweet Cantonese flavours. Another plus? The adjoining cocktail bar: it’s possibly the most stylish in London.
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