Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Fri Feb 17 2012
Situated on a fine stretch of the riverbank between Hammersmith and Putney bridges, this vast Victorian venue is within shouting distance of Craven Cottage, the homely home of Fulham Football Club.
It's been given a grandiose, gastro-tastic going over, and is the latest feather in the bow of posh boozer specialist Realpubs.
We've also been mightily impressed by two of their other venues recently, The Queen Adelaide in Shepherd's Bush and The Pembroke in Earl's Court.
Housed beneath the huge high-vaulted ceiling is the big lounge bar framed by deep, maroon leather banquettes, weighty wooden tables, a smattering of stools, paintings, old photos and all the ornate accoutrements you’d expect.
The locals approve of the remodel, it seems, and on a sunny day can be found in their droves enjoying some of the nicest waterside drinking in the city. The seats under the weeping willow deserve especial mention.
As well as a restaurant bathed in white linen at the rear, there’s a gorgeous, gigantic beer garden, bedecked in wood and stylish shrubbery, which flows down to the riverfront. It’s really rather lovely, if truth be told.
As befits a chalk-board clad boozer, the wine list is extensive, with bottles beginning at £13.50. Ales available include Doom Bar, Theakston Best (a little lacklustre on this occasion), Spitfire and Deuchars IPA, the often-seen Scottish session sip.
There’s cider from Aspall or Symonds, Duvel lurks in the chiller while lager drinkers can opt for Sagres, Birra Moretti and Bitburger.
Food-wise, in addition to a barbecue menu (burger, gherkin, aïoli and chips) and a rôtisserie option offering informal eating, diners can tuck their napkins in tighter for the slightly dearer dinner menu showcasing pork belly, veal wrapped in Parma ham, or razor clams with chorizo, chilli and garlic.
Crabtree Rainville Road