Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
Time Out says
Mon Jun 25 2012
Daphne’s faux-Tuscan decor, all exposed brick and bare plaster in tasteful shades of umber and sepia, has changed little since the restaurant’s 1990s heyday – as has the menu, which remains conservatively Italianate. Which is no bad thing; there’s evident care taken over the cooking.
Pasta is made freshly each day, and our pappardelle with wild boar ragù had a lovely bouncy texture that complemented the rich meaty sauce. A starter of aubergine parmigiana would easily pass muster in Italy. Prices, though, would make a Tuscan contadino’s eyes water – particularly for fish dishes (several are £24) on the à la carte – but they are probably deemed reassuringly expensive by the extraordinarily well-off customers of this fashionable district.
Better value can be found on the set menu, which might include fresh mozzarella served with a whole deep-fried baby courgette with flower intact, and nicely al dente risotto primavera, made rich, we suspect, with large quantities of butter (slimming fashionistas, take note). Desserts play safe with the likes of sorbet and chocolate-based dolci. Service is gently solicitous and generally professional. Prices on the mostly Italian (and typically food-friendly) wine list seem reasonable, compared to the food.
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