Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
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Time Out says
Mon Jul 9 2012
Islington’s answer to a truckers’ caff in the Punjab, this shabby-chic canteen is renowned for its earthy home-style cooking at prices that don’t bite. Even on weekday evenings, the air is thick with smoky spices and the buzzy conversation of young professionals out for a masala-fix.
Functional seating arrangements and Indian newspapers plastered across the walls are part of the rough-and-ready appeal, and are complementary to the reassuringly short menu of North Indian staples. There’s even a guy making breads by the entrance.
Although the tandoori platters are decent, we prefer to order the curries. Rogan josh, slowly simmered lamb cooked with fried onions, ginger and garlic, is spiked with aromatic spices and squished tomatoes: fabulous for its mellow flavour and best enjoyed with griddle-cooked chapatis. Keep an eye out too for chalked-up blackboard specials; we love the slow-cooked goat curry and spicy kidney beans. Vegetarians also get a look-in, with such gems as gingery black lentil dahl and quick-fried chopped okra.
Service is well meaning, if at times a tad slow, but there’s a steady supply of own-made dips and dunks to fill any gaps.
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