[title]
This is one of two Dozos in London (the other is in South Kensington), and it comes from a group that has just opened the doors to Viet Food – an impressive new Vietnamese addition to Chinatown. Dozo bills itself as a ‘Japanese fine dining restaurant’, though our experience is restricted to the more value-orientated lunchtime offerings.
Bento boxes, donburi, ramen and sushi sets – most with miso soup and a small salad included – are priced at an extremely reasonable £6.90. We enjoyed serviceable sushi and sashimi, plus a big bowl of chilli beef ramen, with good depth to the stock and plentiful meat, veg, noodles and garnish. A fair number of the tables around us had Japanese occupants, which must say something.
Dozo’s seating is definitely worth a mention. It’s zashiki-style (traditionally, low tables with diners sitting on the floor) but here there’s space below the table into which legs can swing. It’s a concession that’s certainly helpful for Western limbs less at ease with the lotus position but still not without its difficulties – don’t be surprised to see a few accidental downward dogs from less nimble diners.
Service journeyed from the firm (we were admonished for stepping too far over the breach on arrival) to the sweet (a smiling ‘thank you’ and the door held open as we left). The only real gripe was edamame delivered well after our mains hit the table – fine as they were, a dessert they do not make.
With such good value at lunch, Dozo is an easy place to recommend. As long your limbs can contort for those tables – or you’re prepared to leave your dignity at the door. Woof woof.