A noisy canteen for Clapham twentysomethings, Eco is a perfect fit amid the bars and chain restaurants that line the stretch between Clapham Common and Clapham North tube stations.
The (sourdough) pizzas are much better than they need to be. They run from classics such as fiorentina and american hot to the likes of sausage and ricotta or calzone stuffed with chicken and green chilli. There’s also the option of a ‘giant pizza sandwich’, in which a base topped with tomato and garlic is cooked, and then folded round a generous pile of ingredients: we relished the parma ham, buffalo mozzarella, avocado and herb salad version. Sadly, spaghetti bolognese was decidedly average, and dips of spicy avocado and smoked aubergine tasted a bit processed.
Other non-pizza options include grills and salads, plus starters such as mussels in cream, chilli or tomato sauce. The drinks list contains no surprises – other than a kir royal that tasted more like Ribena. Decor is a bit dated, and the hard surfaces do nothing to soak up the sound of a young crowd in full flow. Staff are willing, and keep smiling despite the fast turnover.