A more cheerful spot than its location and black frontage suggest, this laid-back neighbourhood restaurant features pot plants, lanterns and various accoutrements of the sea. The meat content of the menu has been beefed up in recent years, but most come here for the fish, which can be charcoal-grilled, poached, deep-fried in batter or shallow-fried in breadcrumbs. There are a few fishy pasta options too, plus classic starters such as calamares, mussels, whitebait and taramasalata.
Our exquisitely fresh grilled sea bream with salad was the sort of fare made memorable on Mediterranean holidays. Traditional British battered haddock and chips was a fine rendition, and we were greatly impressed by the quality of the own-made fish fingers for kids. The brief wine list has some decent bottles, but the familiar brands seem overpriced outside a supermarket setting. Thinly populated on our weeknight visit, this is nevertheless a handy and friendly joint locals would do well to support.