Flat Iron

  • Restaurants
  • Steakhouse
1 Love It
1/2
2/2
Soho

Like its older sibling, the new branch of Flat Iron – a ten-minute wiggle away on foot through Soho – follows the same one-dish policy. The signature flat iron steak (as top blade is known over the pond) is served perfectly pink, and reasonably priced at just a tenner. It’s easy to ramp up your food bill though, once you’ve said yes to dripping-cooked chips (£2.50), a sauce (£1 each) and greens (£2.50). But the béarnaise was silky smooth, Fred’s sauce had a mild kick, and the leafy broad bean top salad had a delightful peppery crunch.

Beyond the namesake steak a handful of daily specials are explained by the eager-to-please staff. On our visit, the wagyu chuck steak (£15) was disappointingly chewy, and the burger (£15) – also made with pricey wagyu beef – scored high on flavour but low on engineering, with meaty crumbs of the patty falling apart after just a few bites.  
The stripped-back look, with bare brick, antique-styled panelling and age-of-steam décor certainly looks the part in the airy dining space at the rear, though the acoustics suffer; lip-reading will come in handy if there are more than a dozen diners.

As for the mini ‘flat iron’ meat cleavers – they’re quirky but gimmicky, since the steaks come ready sliced. Oh, and they’re not to be snaffled as ‘souvenirs’, as the menu politely points out. Consider yourself warned.

By Catherine Balston

Venue name: Flat Iron
Contact:
Address: 9 Denmark St
London
WC2 H8LS
Transport: Tube: Tottenham Court Road
Price: Around £35 for two

Average User Rating

5 / 5

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