A contemporary brasserie run by a former fashion model in the shabby, increasingly chic environs of Dalston, Floyd’s should be enormously irritating. But with a certain charm and some serious know-how in the kitchen, Konrad Lindholm and his team are pulling it off. A pretty pale blue-painted space with shelves of books here, Middle Eastern tiles there and flowers on every wooden table set the scene.
The staff are easy-going and the menu competently covers the bases, from breakfast through mains to snacks and puddings – the combination successfully pulls in the regulars. We stopped by for a late lunch and had a chilled cucumber and yoghurt soup, which is easy to get wrong but here was spot-on: tart and sweet, heady with garlic and a hint of dill, scattered with chives and slicked with olive oil.
The soup could have done with some accompanying bread, but this minor blip was forgiven with the arrival of a towering plate of ingenious courgette linguine with almond and parsley pesto, nutty wild mushrooms, rocket and parmesan – a juicy plateful of deep flavours offering all the pleasures of pasta with none of the carb coma. A definite winner.