When it was displaced by the development of the Olympic Park, London’s oldest salmon smoker – established in the early 20th century to supply London’s Jewish community with Baltic salmon – moved to a prime site just across the Lea Navigation from the Olympic Stadium. The snazzy new premises incorporate a restaurant and bar as well as the corporate headquarters and a spacious smokery with viewing gallery.
But if the plan was to showcase the quality of the produce, it has slightly misfired. The menu features half a dozen routine Modern European dishes among which salmon features only incidentally. The mild London cure is served as a starter with accompaniments of sour cream, capers and red onion, which were rather tired on our visit; salmon and tuna sashimi with wasabi sauce was much nicer. Mains, of herb-crusted salmon and a smoked haddock fish cake, were OK, but nothing more.
In playbook modern design – black spindly furniture, wood-strip flooring, open kitchen – the dining room, like the food, is nothing special, but it has a wall of windows and a small terrace offering great stadium views (ask when booking if you want a window seat), as does the nicer gallery-like bar next door.