Gaucho Charlotte Street

You don’t want to feel herded at an Argentinian steak restaurant. Thankfully, despite the huge dining area and familiar cow-skin decor, this branch of the Gaucho chain maintains a personal, attentive touch. Front-of-house staff look after coats, while waiters describe the steaks with the gory aid of a board topped with raw examples. A pre-starter of complimentary rustic bread augured well for the meat; it was plain-looking but big on flavour. To follow, each portion of a ceviche sampler (prawn, trout, mackerel) was two mouthfuls at most. Beautifully presented, it was a feast primarily for the eyes. Empanadas were good but seemed overpriced. For the main event, an easy chewing bife de cuadril (rump) was superior to the more expensive bife de ancho (ribeye) in both taste and texture. Each cut can be cranked up in weight – a popular option with the expense-account diners that Gaucho attracts. Accompaniments were variable: chimichurri sauce was bland and leafy, more suited to bread dipping than as an accompaniment to grilled meat; however, chips were good, a side dish of tenderstem broccoli in wasabi dressing was cooked just-so, and the flavours of a tomato salad were robust.