Clare Smyth MBE has now been appointed chef-patron of Gordon Ramsay’s flagship Chelsea restaurant. Her name features on the intelligently inventive menu, and the cool, elegant dining room has been refurbished with distinctly feminine touches, including lilac-toned silk-screen print panels.
Dishes tantalise then delight the senses; no element of the complex assemblies seems showily redundant – even the pouring of sauces at table adds visual and aromatic impact. A snow of frozen buttermilk proved a perfect counterpoint to slivers of summer vegetables in a rock pool of warm, deeply flavoured jus. Shavings of salt-baked turnip gave saline balance to the sweetness of rabbit loin with roast hazelnuts, and vadouvan-spiced, smoke-puffed wild rice provided a crunchy backdrop to tender mutton.
If our set lunch desserts were a touch less perfect, petits fours stepped in with polished panache. It helps to have an insouciant budget, but we were treated with warm courtesy throughout: even by the sommelier, pre-tasting our screw-topped South African rosé. Show particular interest in any aspect of the meal and you’ll elicit an enthusiastic and informed response.
The Herdwick mutton, we discovered, was ineffably pink and tender because it had been brought down from high ground hefting to lush grassland for three months. We left with a smile, and lifted spirits.
|Venue name:||Gordon Ramsay||Contact:|
68 Royal Hospital Road
|Opening hours:||Lunch served noon-2.15pm Mon-Fri; dinner served 6.30-11pm Mon-Fri.|
|Transport:||Tube: Sloane Square|
|Price:||Set lunch £65 3 courses. Set meal £110 3 courses, £145 tasting menu; £175 seasonal menu|
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Average User Rating
4.3 / 5
- 5 star:2
- 4 star:1
- 3 star:1
- 2 star:0
- 1 star:0
Excellent service and great desserts bookend a fairly average meal. There is too much focus on expensive ingredients and not enough on making each plate special. While everything was competently cooked and the individual components of each dish were tasty, the dishes are highly conservative and in most cases, with the exception of dessert, the sum of the parts was below par. Overall, a fairly disappointing meal for somewhere with such a high reputation and top-end price. There are much better options in London at this level (Alyn Williams, the Square, the Five Fields to name a few) all of which are lower cost than GR and provide a significantly better gourmet experience.
We went to the restaurant for lunch. It was a very special occasion. Everything was perfect. The food was excellent. The staff were very friendly and most helpful. The setting could not have been better and we made most welcome and made to feel very special. The highlight was when we were invited to view the kitchen and meet Clare Smyth abd the staff. We hope to go to the retaurant again when we are next in London. Thank you so much for a wonderful experience. With every good wish, Ian Pickup.