Another proficient operation from the Cubitt House group – the people who brought us elegant spots such as the Thomas Cubitt and Pantechnicon Rooms in Belgravia, and the Orange Public House in Pimlico. Marble Arch may seem a bit north for them, but this is Portman Village, where their contemporary country house look goes down as smoothly as a glass of champers.
Certainly, this ex-pub is not a destination for real ale enthusiasts (Deuchars IPA the only tap beer on our visit); the wine list is well chosen, but the prices are West End-high, with £18 the starting point for bottles of pinot grigio and merlot. There’s also a choice of ten cocktails, as well as fresh juices including watermelon, and an apple, lemon and lime combo.
Food is mostly British, with plenty of French and Mediterranean influences, though, refreshingly, this is a chorizo-free zone. You’ll find a ploughman’s, roasts (with suppliers name-checked), and a lamb and rosemary pie, but also the likes of seared scallops with cauliflower, fennel and saffron dressing, and stuffed courgette flower with goat’s cheese and tomato and basil. Breakfast sounds a treat, with own-made muffins and granola, blueberry pancakes and the expected full english (including black pudding) and eggs benedict.