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A helpful history mounted on the wall of this corner site tells us there has been a pub here since 1809; it's unlikely, though, that the original landlord, Isaac Toynbee, would recognise it now.
The bar has been relegated to a small counter at one side, and inside there's not much in the way of original features. This is not to say that it isn't attractive, with its soothing grey walls decorated with large, semi-abstract paintings.
Food is definitely the focus, and it may be hard for the casual drinker to find a seat on a busy evening. Upstairs is fancier still, and more akin to a fine-dining restaurant. The menu changes monthly and, though not huge, provides good variety for eaters of every persuasion (whether meaty, fishy or veggie). There's a lot of imaginative cooking here, and with an equal emphasis on artful presentation and quality-driven sourcing of raw ingredients.
Out the back is a spectacular garden, a contender for the best in the city. There's decking, tables, trees and lighting; high walls shield the grassy expanse from the surrounding streets but allow plenty sunlight in to nourish the verdant borders. A cracking place for an alfresco drink.