This East African restaurant group has two London outposts (in Knightsbridge and Edgware) and serves mainly North Indian staples. We’ve been coming here for years and are saddened at the recent slide in standards. This time around, only aloo chaat was a resounding success, memorable for its golden fried potato chunks tossed with softened onions and seasoned with pounded dried mango and toasted cumin.
In the past, we’ve had fabulous renditions of garlic-laden kaka-di-lamb curry made with meaty chunks cooked on the bone. Sadly, this Punjabi offering was marred by far too much floral screwpine essence and undercooked onion masala. Corners have been cut elsewhere: skewered chicken cubes (tandoori burra kebabs) were stringy-textured and insufficiently marinated in lime juice and ginger. Even the simple staple of palak paneer lacked seasoning and fresh punchy flavour.
Decor is a mix of weathered cane furniture and potted plants, against a backdrop of beige, with an open kitchen providing some visual distraction. Prices aren’t cheap and service is patchy, but its proximity to Harrods keeps Haandi busy with wealthy shoppers and business groups.