Time Out says
Fri Jul 27 2012
Back at uni, my Jewish Israeli housemate would regularly invite hordes of ‘his people’ (his words, not mine) over to our small sitting room, to eat, play board games, debate, dance and sing late into the night. All, interestingly, without a drop of alcohol being poured. As for the rest of us, any attempts to study (or sleep) were futile: ‘quiet’ wasn’t in my housemate’s vocabulary, and besides, the rampant hospitality was infectious. I still remember his parties fondly, not least because the flavours of the food, much like the people in the room, were big, bold and colourful. So when I got a tip-off about Honey & Co, a new café from two Israeli chefs, I made a beeline for a table.
This husband-and-wife team have an impressive pedigree: Itamar Srulovich was most recently head chef at Ottolenghi, while his wife Sarit Packer was both head of pastry at Ottolenghi and executive chef at Nopi. Every item here, from the breads and pastries stacked up in the window to jars of exotic jams and preserved lemons, is made on the premises in the basement bakery and kitchen. Srulovich describes the vibrant, homely menu as ‘food from the Middle East’; not merely Israeli but drawing on the roots in the whole of the region, including the culinary traditions of Jewish immigrants from Algeria, Morocco and Iraq. The food here is stunning, alive with colour and texture. It is not, however, ‘Jewish’ food; non-kosher ingredients such as prawns sometimes appear on the daily-changing menu.
We kicked off with tiny meze, each dish showing the same care and attention to detail – a garnish of fresh herbs here, a slick of olive oil there. On our visit, highlights included beetroot marinated in Corinthian wine vinegar, the tang of the crimson chunks simply offset by verdant sprigs of Greek oregano. A light tzatziki was laced with cucumber and dill. No less impressive was a watermelon salad: sweet, juicy pieces of fruit a foil to the creamy, salty feta, with halved pistachios, slivers of green chilli and sprigs of mint adding crunch, punch and zing. A trio of beautifully textured fresh-as-daisies falafels were exceptional, as was a slow-cooked lamb shank (strewn with rose petals then baked overnight); the tender pieces of rich meat served with fluffy couscous and a dollop of the house zhough (a Yemeni spice paste – this one bursting with mint and chilli).
Cakes and pastries gaze out on to the street, flirting with passers-by. ‘Eat us,’ they say, ‘you won’t regret it.’ We eyed up the peach and yoghurt cake, then the orange blossom cake, but finally went for a Fitzroy bun – the Honey & Co take on a Chelsea bun – a sweet and sticky swirl of dough scented with mahleb, a fragrant spice made from ground cherry stones, giving the pastry a marzipan-esque quality. It is then generously loaded with chunks of sour cherries and toasted pistachio nuts.
Perhaps my only gripe is that, with just 27 covers (20 if you exclude the outdoor and bar seating) and a fast-growing reputation, tables are hard to come by. Happily, Honey & Co takes bookings. Go, and be transported to a sunny Middle Eastern place.
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