On a rare balmy English summer evening, with its floor-to-ceiling windows rolled back, Inn The Park has one of the most enviable positions in town – in the heart of St James’s Park. The restaurant’s airy contemporary interior is sympathetic to the outside space, right down to the bumblebee motif on the glasses.
Attention to detail was reflected in a menu that offered seasonality in spades, from pea and lovage salad with honey and own-made ricotta, to globe artichoke with cobnut vinaigrette. Sadly, the menu promised more than it delivered, the lobster, squid and crayfish salad being a rather mean smattering of seafood amid an overgrown plate of frisée, making the £16.50 price tag questionable. Shetland smoked salmon and haddock fish cakes too seemed like a starter portion.
That left room for the cheeseboard, which reads as a showcase of British cheeses: blue horizon, keltic gold and an intriguing Cornish miss muffet. A mistake in the kitchen meant we received two cheeses rather than three, but this was soon rectified along with a requested extra portion of the top-notch wheaten bread, which only then managed to sate our grumbling stomachs. Could, and should, do better.