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The kati (pronounced ‘karti’) is as popular in India’s colonial-style clubs as it is on its rural railway platforms. While a paratha (flaky flatbread) sizzles on a hot griddle, it’s topped with beaten egg that sets to a thin omelette. Garlicky chicken tikka, tangy stir-fried beef, mini lamb patties, paneer or spicy potatoes are put in the middle; add a flurry of red onion slices and a dollop of herby chutney, and the whole lot is then wrapped into a tidy roll. The cooks make everything from scratch using distinctive marinades and fresh, own-ground masalas.