The menu here includes such authentically Turkish dishes as ‘ribeye steak with chunky fries’. On seeing this we were tempted to quietly slip away, but ended up glad we’d stayed – the cooking is as hearty, homely and authentic as anything on Green Lanes. As one of London’s few upmarket Turkish restaurants, Kazan is perhaps trying too hard to justify its existence. There are no doner kebabs in sight, and the flowers on tables, lavish furnishings, champagne cocktails and individual hand towels in toilets aren’t found at many other Turkish eateries – but the food is far from dainty or fussy. As we discovered when our pan-fried calf’s liver hit our table, it’s served in vast portions. This 17th-century Ottoman street food had a deep, earthy flavour offset by the sweetness of parsley and sumac. The Kazan special was an epic dish: a vast portion of lamb shish, lamb köfte and chargrilled chicken, all outstandingly prepared and served with spicy salsa and yoghurt. Equally good was hünkar begendi, stewed lamb in an impossibly rich, creamy aubergine mash, spiked with spring onions and spicy tomato sauce. Prices are perhaps 25% higher than elsewhere, but for the extra focus on service, presentation and comfort, it’s worth it.