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When you have hot spots like Dishoom knocking the socks off millennial foodies craving a curry, this prim and proper Indian in Kensington feels sort of old-school. But I guess that’s on purpose, since the reasonably priced dishes take their cue from the 18th century, when regional cuisine was influenced by the colonial rule of the British Empire (aka the British Raj).
Take the murga tikka – a hearty serving of chunky, grilled chicken thighs. It did a brilliant job of offering a straightforward balance of typical, mouthwateringly pungent spices and a serious kick of chilli. The saag bhaji was another incredible dish, lightly salted and rich from onions and peppers. It’s just a shame the batakh chettinad (pan-seared duck breast) was a letdown. For a main that looked the business and smelled divine, that duck didn’t stand a chance; it was way too tough. At least the gin cocktails were knockout, not to mention the honey-grilled pineapple for afters. But be warned: the menu is practically an encyclopedia of classics, fusion specials, vegetables and clay oven delicacies. Study it online beforehand, otherwise you’ll be here forever.