Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Mon Sep 24 2012
Full tables on a weekday evening are testimony to this buzzy gastropub’s success since reopening in late 2011. Under the same owners as Shoreditch’s Princess, the Victorian former boozer has been similarly renovated with an intelligent blend of smartness and old-pubbiness. The new name evokes Bloomsbury Groupie Lady Ottoline Morrell, and her famously large nose looks down from several photos.
You can eat in the fairly noisy bar, or a snug upstairs dining room. Main menus are somewhat pricier than the gastropub norm, but more ambitious, with imaginative Mod-British combinations that on our visit would have been excellent if not for a few misses. In a salad of rare roast sirloin, pickles and wensleydale, the meat and cheese were great, but were presented in an overwhelming pile of rocket; to follow, wild mushroom and summer bean tart with chargrilled fennel made for a lovely seasonal vegetarian choice, but was again heavily over-rocketed. Another main, slow-roasted pork belly, was juicy and tender, served with delicious braised cheek and roast carrots.
Wines and beers are well chosen and well priced; service was friendly if rather ditzy. Skip the rocket addiction and this will be one to watch.
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