Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>2/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
Rowley Leigh’s brasserie-restaurant has been around since 2008, but feels much more established. Partly that’s because it’s in a lovely art deco-influenced room in stately old Whiteley’s, but mostly it’s because Café Anglais is so very assured.
Every dish from a recent meal off the summer menu was just so, and some were memorable: super-smooth, deeply savoury rigatoni with spring greens and chicken livers; flavour-packed, lightly creamy duck salad with girolles à la grecque (both generous starters); succulent grilled pork chop beautifully matched with rosemary, apple, polenta and lardo; and dreamily light gooseberry and elderflower gratin. From the rotisserie (on view in the open kitchen) came roast chicken leg with parsley and garlic butter: a great-value main course at £8.50.
Dishes also look a treat, and we love the hors d’oeuvres – £5 each for taster portions of aubergine ‘imam bayildi’ or the justly famous parmesan custard with anchovy toasts.
Drinks are a strength: the wine list has seasonal features (chilled summer reds on this occasion); coffee is first class; and tap water is enthusiastically topped up all evening. A café/bar with a simplified menu is near the entrance, under a spectacular chandelier. Service expertly balances efficiency and friendliness. A model restaurant, Café Anglais makes it all seem effortless.
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