Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
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Time Out says
Fri Jul 20 2012
It’s in the shell of a Victorian pub, but no Victorian pub ever looked like this. When Les Trois Garçons opened in 2000, the talking point was the wildly eclectic decor – and it still wows today. A menagerie of taxidermy includes a giraffe, monkey and bejewelled sabre-tooth tiger; a handbag light installation hangs from the ceiling; and shelves are filled with an assortment of knick-knacks, curios and antiquities. To say it’s cluttered would be wrong: the three boys behind the name are as accomplished interior designers as they are restaurateurs. All this ornamentation might overshadow the food, but the cooking is generally of a high standard. Dishes are based on classical French technique and quality ingredients, but the kitchen employs imaginative flourishes that demonstrate a sense of adventure. A seared scallop comes with burnt orange dressing and freeze-dried, crispy slices of pomelo; veal cutlet might be paired with sweetbread wun tuns, say, and roast lamb with a deeply flavoured ‘croquette’ of its shoulder. Although service is flawless and friendly, it’s hard to justify the prices – two courses from the à la carte are £40.50. The fashionable crowd who pack LTG aren’t here for value, that’s for sure.
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