Lima London

Part of the ‘Peruvian wave’ of restaurants to hit the capital over a decade ago, Lima pitched itself squarely at the high end. The modish rear dining room mixes the hum of low-level beats with polite chatter; only the occasional Inca-patterned cushion adds colour. 

Well-drilled staff bring out a medley of carefully crafted small plates. Our sea bream ceviche saw chunks of fish in ‘tiger’s milk’ (the ceviche marinade) flecked with shards of hot aji limo chilli, and pieces of roasted corn (added at the table so as not to lose their crunch). Later, we enjoyed thick wedges of suckling pig – part dense meat, part salty, crispy crackling – nicely matched by a rough corn mash spiked with two kinds of peppers (piquillo and green rocoto).