The former restaurant 'Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley Hotel' has now been rennovated and reopened at 'Marcus'. The review below is for the previous restaurant - March 2014, Food & Drink Editors
Like sinking yourself into a glass of fine Bordeaux, this long-established dining room is a treat, confident in its quality and style. Deep wine tones are brightened by white linens and a circular glass motif for an ambience that is cosseting and elegantly comfortable. Meals begin with the sommelier wheeling over a trolley of champagne on ice and talking you through the various bottles offered – frankly, it’s hard to say no. Then comes a bread basket with four loaves and, on our visit, airy gougères to snack on. From that point in the meal things just got better: a heavenly pea-themed amuse-bouche with ricotta foam (not at all sudsy); the clean zingy flavours of sardine, sweetcorn, coriander and cucumber in a high-end, not-quite Asian salad; just-so roast pork with a plate-licking jus and aubergine caviar. Desserts are a strong point, and the dish described as ‘apricot, vanilla, oats’ looked like Halley’s comet streaking across the plate: a large crusted ball of two ice-cream flavours, with grilled fruit and compote sparkling in its chocolatey wake. Then superb chocolates and coffee to finish. Every menu is available with a wine-pairing option and, although the list is predominately French, the sommelier selected an Argentinian malbec to match the pork.