Time Out says
Thu Oct 18 2012
Mari Vanna is the London branch of of an international Russian chain. Like its New York counterpart, it seems aimed at affluent Russians who yearn for a taste of Mother Russia. Named after a mythical babushka (grandmother), Mari Vanna has wasted no spare ceiling, wall or shelf as somewhere to hang chandeliers, tchotchke (knick-knacks), and many other hundreds of objects evoking times past. It’s stacked full of stuff, from an antique bicycle in the hallway to crocheted place mats on the tables; the contents even spill out on to the street – wellington boots are used to house potted plants on the entrance steps.
The welcome – once you’re let in the locked entrance door – is very warm, the service solicitous and smiling.
But how is granny’s cooking? Very traditional, in the best sense. A basket of excellent rye breads and nibbles whets the appetite as you peruse the menu. We skipped the several selections of Russian salad – a tenner or more seems steep for diced vegetables – and instead ordered on to the pirozhki. These Russian ‘Cornish pasties’ are small, but made from a yeast dough that’s glazed with egg yolk to give an attractive golden sheen. The dough was soft-textured, the crust firm, as it should be; the fillings – beef and pork, cabbage and chicken, sea bass – moist and juicy.
The blinis were exemplary: as delicate as the lace doilies adorning the tables, these were served with the side dishes of smetana (sour cream), boiled and chopped egg, diced red onion and a generous helping of salmon roe, a perfect DIY picnic.
Beef stroganoff is now an international dish, but its origins date back to nineteenth-century Russia. Thin strips of beef are sautéed and served in a rich sauce of spiced sour cream, in this case with a delectable side dish of perfectly cooked kasha (buckwheat), its nutty flavour enhanced by wild mushrooms.
Diners seeking their dumpling fix should save room for the pelmeni. You find these sort of dumplings – a tortellini-like case around minced beef and pork – all the way from Korea and China, through Tibet and Siberia to Poland (where they’re called pierogi) to Turkey. Again, these dumplings were exemplary, with taut pasta cases around springy, juicy fillings.
Not so good? The wine list starts expensive, and gets dearer. Choices by the glass are limited. The vodka shots may be a better choice – or do as we did, and order the kvass. This is a low-alcohol drink made from fermenting rye bread. A bit like a root beer, this delicious herbal brew is then flavoured with cranberry or raspberry juice, and served in cut-glass decanters.
Western ideas of Russian food may still conjure proletarian staples and bleak surroundings, but Mari Vanna combines great service, good cooking and a cosy, charming interior. Of course it’s not cheap, but if you’re one of London’s growing number of émigré oligarchs, this doesn’t appear to be a deterrent. For a less expensive way to experience its charms, afternoon tea is served from 2.30-4.45pm, and breakfast opening is planned.
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