Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Fri Oct 12 2012
What is perhaps currently London’s hippest restaurant was opened by Yianni Papoutsis after he’d spent a few years driving his Meat Wagon mobile grill around town. Along with his famed burgers, it serves up a serious side order of attitude. Wires dangle from the ceiling, walls are violently graffitied, it’s eerily dark and grungy, and the rockabilly/hillbilly/garage is turned up loud. It would be a distressing environment for elderly relatives – but if granny loves a good burger, there’s no better place in London to get one. Yianni has clearly done his research into the underrated artform that is the US hamburger: everything, down to the enamel tin it’s served on, is pitch-perfect. Patties are 100% beef, topped with additions such as pickles, cheese, red onions, chilli or the secret ‘dead hippie’ sauce, and served in a glazed bun. Other dishes include sweet and spicy buffalo wings, fried pickles (very Deep South), coleslaw and chilli dogs: kitchen roll is provided to compensate for the lack of cutlery – and you’ll need it. The attention-deficit decor is not to some people’s taste, and staff can sometimes appear aloof. But Meat Liquor is good value (a cheeseburger costs £6.50) and the closest you’ll get to a down ’n’ dirty diner without crossing the Atlantic.
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