It’s hard to know why this Chiswick high-flyer, a hop and a skip from the chi-chi shops of Turnham Green Terrace, isn’t better known. The food, cooked by Craig Best (ex La Trompette), dabbles in the Orient (chilli, daikon, ginger, soy), while showcasing the best of European ingredients (foie gras, burrata, English asparagus, serrano ham). Our set lunch – superb value at £24 for three courses – delivered on every level: presentation, originality, flavour, va-va-voom. Fish is a particular strength. Soft-shell crab (crisply tempura-ed) with daikon and sweet chilli was vibrant and zingily fresh, as was an unusual salmon ceviche with piquillo peppers and noisettes of sweet potato. Mains showed similar verve. Sautéed king prawns served with playfully criss-crossed fillets of sea bass and herby tagliatelle had great depth of flavour; tender, flavoursome rabbit came with a sweet-sour caponata. A chocolate fondant could have done with more salted caramel, but this is a tiny quibble. Service was friendly and informed, the wine list a global affair with plenty of affordable options. The spartan room (monochrome photos, white walls, black chairs) lacks atmosphere, but the superb cooking made for a memorable meal. Get a boothed window table if you can.
Combining excellent produce with elegant service in sophisticated surroundings, the restaurant offers an innovative dining experience within an intimate and relaxed environment of a neighbourhood restaurant.
Having worked in some of the UK's best fine-dining establishments including Gordon Ramsay's Petrus, Chez Bruce and La Trompette, chef-patron Michael Nadra produces the most exquisite food using both classic and modern techniques. An exemplary wine list featuring more than 200 carefully selected bins completes the gastronomic picture.