Michael Nadra's new Primrose Hill restaurant is one of those places that has the potential to be really good. The chefs can clearly cook, the menu makes an interesting read and there are plenty of innovative ingredients in the dishes. They're just trying to pack a bit too much in.
As with the Chiswick original the menu is predominantly European, with the odd Asian twist. Featuring well-presented dishes such as prawn and scallop dumplings in a (slightly overpowering) broccoli and spinach velouté and juicy grilled rump of lamb with ratatouille and rosemary gnocchi, as well as the à la carte, there's a well-priced prix fixe or six-course tasting menu to choose from. New to this branch is the martini bar which also serves small plates of tempura or the Peruvian raw, marinated fish dish ceviche (also available as part of a meal).
My Japanese dining companion described the innovative lamb sweetbread 'tempura' with pea purée and rosemary jus as 'nice, but it's not tempura'. It was not just the Western treatment; the batterwas also erring on the greasy side of crisp.
A main of scotch fillet steak with braised cheeks and creamy truffle mash was executed well - the steak cooked perfectly à point, the cheeks fork-tender. As is often the case with European/Asian fusion restaurants, the Western cooking skills and flavours proved stronger here.
Michael Nadra's Camden canalside location and atmospheric dining areas - including a Grade II-listed horse tunnel, complete with cobbled floor and arched brick ceiling - make this place an appealing destination, and the slick service on our visit couldn't be faulted. However, they'd do better to stick to the European cooking they do so well.
Chef-patron Michael Nadra's second venture in London offers an intimate neighbourhood restaurant, chic bar and elegant garden in the heart of Primrose Hill, on the Regent's Canal. A stylish and unique space complete with a bright conservatory, intimate fireplace room and Grade II-listed horse tunnel, Michael Nadra Primrose Hill provides the perfect setting for any occasion.
The restaurant's philosophy reflects that of Nadra's original Chiswick establishment - high quality and great value contemporary food, served in a relaxed and vibrant environment.
Whether ordering from the prix fixe menu or Michael's six-course tasting menu, diners can be assured of only the finest British, European and Asian ingredients.