Serving the veggie massive for more than a quarter of a century, Mildreds has earned the right to call itself a Soho institution. There’s a no-bookings policy, so expect a lively queue hovering around the front bar area (where you can be seated reasonably quickly) and an even longer wait for a (shared) table in the cosy restaurant beyond. The welcome is warm, the vibes good and the menu inventive, drawing on Asian and Middle Eastern dishes to impressive effect: gyoza dumplings with a mirin and soy sauce were well textured and tasty, and the substantial burrito special was equally satisfying, though our ‘burger’ (daily changing) was disappointingly squishy. Creative desserts are worth making room for and, like the mains, include vegan and gluten-free options, such as the delicious-sounding persian lemon, almond and pistachio polenta cake with rose petal syrup. Being virtuous has never been so much fun; even the wine, coffee, tea and milk are organic. Service is perky yet relaxed, ensuring that this place will surely remain on the hot list of every vegetarian (and their equally happy non-vegetarian friends) for another 25 years.