Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Mon Dec 10 2012
Given the rate at which American grub is colonising the East End, it can only be a matter of time before someone opens a street food enterprise dealing exclusively in barbecued bald eagles. But hang on, what’s this? A Hackney café-slash-bar that doesn’t serve burgers, hot dogs or chicken wings? In light of recent developments, at least, Mr Buckley’s goes against the grain – and with great success.
That said, it’s still clearly out for the hipster pound, and the early indication is that it’s getting it – when we visited there were more beanies, beards and buns than an Urban Outfitters Christmas party. Wise to the requirements of its hangover-prone clientele, the lighting is low and the decor unfussy, with plywood furniture lending the restaurant and downstairs bar the feel of a student union. Thankfully, however, the menu of hearty brunches and European-influenced small plates is worlds apart from the utilitarian fuel of undergrad life.
The trend for tarted-up comfort food is acknowledged with an offering of lobster mac and cheese. Roast breast of poussin came topped with a delightfully crispy skin and the accompanying potato salad held the perfect amount of bite. Blue cheese polenta with mushrooms and truffle oil was a winner in terms of both flavour and texture, and honey-laced lamb cutlets were unfeasibly sweet and tender.
The drinks and desserts are just as creative: bookend your meal with a bacon-accented Bloody Madison cocktail and a slice of cardamom chocolate cake and you’ll be verging on sensory overload.
Between the varied menu and fantastic cooking, Mr Buckley’s makes a great place for a lunch date, with warm, sincere service filling in the conversational gaps as you coo over the creations of one of Hackney’s best new restaurants.
By David Clack
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