In danger of losing its fine reputation to the new breed of chippies, this long-established restaurant appears to have pulled up its socks over the past year or so. Booking is advised for winter evenings; lunchtimes are quiet at best. In an interior better suited to a Cotswolds tea room, service is attentive and friendly. Drinks are dispensed from what looks like an old hotel bar: well stocked, notably with Spitfire and Bombardier ales – the perfect accompaniment to a quick lunch. Starters are varied; spicy prawns seem to be on the ‘daily specials’ list every day, but are good value.
Excellent fish cakes, made in-house, arrive clothed in a light batter rather than breadcrumbs. For mains, all fish can come in jumbo size – small is not in the vocabulary here. Cod and haddock top the price list at £13.95. Chunky fish (skin on) is served hanging off its own plate in a light, flavoursome batter; chips come in a basket, sides in bowls. The ketchup was far too vinegary, and mushy peas too watery – but if these are the only criticisms, there’s little to worry about.