Distressed pink plasterwork and artfully exposed brickwork, the ballustraded mezzanine, sad-looking pot plants and wonky wall lights – Olley’s time- and trend-defying Greek taverna/provincial pizzeria interior seems to have existed for ever. But people don’t come for the ambience, they come for the fish and chips.
Once described as among the best in London, it would now struggle to make the top ten, but the fish remains fresh and well cooked, the batter crispy and the chips non-greasy (but also fairly taste-free). If you’re not in the mood for a fish supper, there are more sophisticated options such as mussels, calamares or lightly grilled lemon sole, but mostly it’s all very old school: breaded scampi, minimal wine list, fizzy drinks, and desserts such as spotted dick and custard or ice-cream sundae topped with squirty cream and a fan-shaped wafer.
Service is pleasant but woefully slow, so if you’re in a hurry, grab a carry-out and eat it across the road in beautiful Brockwell Park.