If you miss your Polish granny, or feel life has cheated you by denying you one, repair to Patio with haste. The olde worlde charm – ornate gold-framed mirrors, upright piano, worn red carpet – of the cosy dining room evokes a grandmother’s sitting room. Caring and friendly service and hearty, authentic flavours continue the theme. Tasty brown and white bread comes with butter and smalec (a spread made of rendered pork fat dotted with bits of bacon). The extensive menu and lists of specials cover most Polish comfort food. Red borscht was the perfect starter: a wonderfully rich and vibrant broth with three meaty dumplings. We followed this with classic golabki (cabbage leaves stuffed with rice and meat and flooded with sweet tomato sauce). Enormous platters of roast potatoes, rich spiced shredded beetroot, and radish and corn in mayonnaise, were served on the side. Dessert might seem impossible after this, but is worth the effort. Fresh fruit and divine doughnut-like pieces of sponge coated in coconut (complimentary snacks while you consider afters) could well finish you off. But the brave should follow the waitress’s advice, and plump for coffee, dessert or a soothing vodka.