Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
The dining room at Pétrus exudes quiet self-confidence. Colours are pleasant on the eye, with dashes of claret and oyster-hued fabrics. There’s a relaxed buzz in the room helped along by hospitable staff. At its centre is an eye-catching circular glass wine cabinet.
A fritter of tête de cochon with gribiche sauce made a punchy opening to our meal. Next came a crispy skinned Cornish mackerel served with mackerel tartare, a splash of sour cream complementing the soft flesh of the fish, with pickled cucumber providing an enticing cool blast.
The well-honed kitchen team is led by Sean Burbidge; it tends towards the conservative, with jiggery-pokery kept to a minimum. That said, a cep foam did appear on top of creamy wild mushroom and spinach wrapped in filo pastry, which accompanied a roasted breast of guinea fowl (Madeira jus adding a luscious end note). We were thrilled by the separate servings of three different coloured carrots and dauphinoise potatoes.
Desserts aren’t to be missed, and seasonal gariguette strawberries made a winning combination with Sauternes jelly, strawberry ice-cream and brown sugar beignets, the dish made still more ravishing by a jelly filled with liquid strawberry that oozed into our mouths.
The charming Japanese sommelier helped us get the best from an impressive wine list filled with classic labels from around the globe. This place seems to get better with every visit.
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