The former Fat Badger pub has transformed into a swan under the wing of the achingly fashionable Soho House Group, a company that seems to specialise in charging more than its cooking is worth, but compensates diners with fabulous interiors and a feeling of being in with the in-crowd.
Refreshingly, this branch of the Pizza East concept doesn’t imitate the hit Shoreditch original. Barring a predilection for white porcelain tiles and the option of bar seating, the two are like night and day: the East Ender’s converted warehouse decor just right for clubbers; this sunny spot (with bright blue chairs, large windows and blue and white striped awnings) inspiring alfresco brunches with friends and family.
We liked the veal meatball pizza, made still more luxurious with cream, and the spicy sausage, mozzarella and broccoli combo – but the desserts left us cold. Apart from around a dozen pizzas, mains include fillet of beef and roast chicken. Breakfast is also served and, as with the original, there’s an on-site deli – though the idea that the Portobello area needs any more retailers of polenta and taleggio is just ridiculous.