Pollen Street Social
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Pollen Street Social
Michael Franke / Time Out
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Pollen Street Social
Michael Franke / Time Out
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Pollen Street Social
Michael Franke / Time Out
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Pollen Street Social
Michael Franke / Time Out
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Pollen Street Social
Michael Franke / Time Out
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
The name suggests a club, of the accessible kind, but behind the narrow street frontage of Pollen Street Social lies an Alice in Wonderland complex of restaurant rooms showcasing the well-honed skills of Jason Atherton. Much has been written in praise of Atherton’s food, and his creations continue to surprise and delight, but we’re also astounded by the (welcome) flexibility that an establishment of this calibre is happy – indeed designed – to offer. A two-hour lunchtime slot allows you to go for a well-priced set menu, play around with the carte (just a couple of starters if that’s what you’re after) and repair to the dessert bar should the fancy take you. And then linger at the no-bookings social bar if sufficiently beguiled.
Service is second to none in its friendliness, efficiency (there’s quite a team in evidence), and willingness to inform, assist or stay in the background. Remarkably, even wines bought by the glass prompt a sample to ensure you’re happy: a wise move, perhaps, given the unusual bottles offered, but also symbolic of a unique exchange between restaurant and diner.
Our last visit saw happy deployment of artful simplicity, whether at set menu level (perfectly succulent square and cylinder of Dingley Dell pork belly and loin with simply outstanding mash) or the carte: tartare of fallow deer was perfect, needing no further accompaniment than its ‘broken egg’ sauce. Desserts carried more drama, but a sorbet of beetroot and strawberry with wild fruit and wafers of basil ash meringue was seamlessly well-balanced. Add-ons, from breads to chocolate ‘pebbles’, melded into one delightful experience. Elbow-room might be sparse, and the general buzz markedly loud, but no one seemed to mind in the least.
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