With its beach-style wooden bar, hessian cushions, beads, and quirky curios, Potli has a tropical street-bazaar vibe. Local residents visit for the classic curries, smoky grills and generous portions. Banana-leaf packets, unwrapped at the table, revealed splendidly steamed Gujarati-style prawns, each cloaked in an outstanding coconut, coriander and green-chilli paste.
Main courses tend to be rich affairs, with dishes arriving in bowls for sharing. Our curries wouldn’t have won awards in a beauty pageant, but despite their similar tomato-masala appearances, each had distinctive spicing. An enormous rogan josh lamb shank (enough for two) was supremely tender, and sauced with a gelatinous caramelised onion masala spiked with citrous cardamom. Sadly, goan pork vindaloo, although containing tender pork belly chunks, was let down by a flat masala and needed a kick of chilli and vinegar to lift it from mediocrity.
It’s good to see Meantime Pale Ale on the drinks list – a marvellous match with all things spicy. Despite occasional slips, Potli is a great place to enjoy a relatively inexpensive meal. Its chefs excel in putting unfussy, homely meals on plates.