The attentive and talented bar staff are all moustaches, flat caps and waistcoats. But unlike the studied eclecticism that has been done to death across the capital – taxidermy, birdcages, stuff fermenting away in glass bottles – here the heavy helpings of Victoriana, Edwardiana and Colonialana just work.
It’s a lively place that attracts drinkers of all generations: you can eat at the bar or at one of the booths, or there’s a conservatory that serves as a more formal dining room. As one of the bartenders said to us on our last visit: ‘We don’t have a sweet tooth.’
So this is a haven for anyone who likes cocktails with subtle layers of flavour, or maybe just a big hit of delectable sourness. And all served up with aplomb. Cheery live music makes this a good place to cast off the Sunday-night doldrums, and pretend for a few hours longer that you don’t actually have to work in the morning.