Fishmonger by day, seafood bar by night, this little café-bar has charm by the bucket- and spadeful. It’s the sort of low-lit, potentially romantic place you’d be delighted to stumble on during a sojourn in Normandy, or a long weekend in Cornwall, yet it’s minutes from Upper Street. There’s a high marble counter and bar stool where you can perch and tuck into a plate of oysters, ceviche, even a whole lobster.
Like a proper seafood shack, little cooking is done on the premises, and most of the dishes are served cold – some in hanging-basket style platters which place the dishes at eye level.
On our visit the seafood was fresh, the preparation up to scratch, but the portions were on the small side. This is a frequent problem in seafood bars: don’t arrive too hungry, or you can run up a large bill. The wine list could also use a bit more imagination, though our wines by the glass – a picpoul de pinet, and an albariño – were well suited to the seafood, and a sparkling albariño was served in a coupe glass. Service was sweet, though not particularly organised. It’s an attractive spot for some beachcombing and grazing, but not a prime catch.