Rasoi Vineet Bhatia

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Ring the bell of Rasoi’s well-appointed townhouse and smart staff (ours was French) will show you through a grotto-like bar to a sumptuously furnished front room with space for scarcely 12 diners, or to another slightly roomier dining area behind the bar. Sit on tapestry armchairs (avoiding the bolt-upright leather banquettes if possible) and peruse the menus. The grandiose wine list, together with gourmand and tasting menus, speak of luxurious fine dining, and Rasoi has its Michelin star and (in Vineet Bhatia) celebrity chef duly in place. Modern Indian is Bhatia’s métier, but we found the lunchtime tasting menu (£36) veered between the exhilarating and the mundane. Courses flowed freely, from chutneys and popadoms via a routine vadai pre-starter, to an espresso-cup appetiser of tomato and lentil soup. Next came the highlight: two perfectly grilled scallops, their creaminess balanced by a tangy roast-potato chat and chilli oil. In contrast, the ensuing seekh kebabs lacked the requisite freshly seared flavour. And though juicy chunks of chicken tikka were paired with outstanding saffron rice, their tomato sauce bore too striking a resemblance to Campbell’s Condensed soup. The finale of a dryish squat ‘chocomosa’ (samosa filled with white and dark chocolate) made few amends. Perhaps it would be better to sample the carte, which contains such attractions as grilled pepper duck breast with potato khichdi and foie gras brûlée.
Venue name: Rasoi Vineet Bhatia
Address: 10 Lincoln Street
Opening hours: Lunch served noon-2.30pm Mon-Fri. Dinner served 6-11pm Mon-Sat.
Transport: Tube: Sloane Square tube
Price: Set meal £45 2 courses, £55 3 courses, £75 tasting menu.
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