Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Wed Jul 4 2012
This upmarket restaurant has been showcasing the more refined aspects of North Indian food since the early 1980s, and has outlasted the New Labour politicians who reportedly used it as a favoured meeting spot in the ’90s. This association might make it seem like an expense-account sort of place – it’s not cheap, and wine especially hammers the wallet – but it is possible to eat well here even if you’re not on Mandelson money.
Try the set lunch or pre-theatre menu if you’re feeling frugal – the food is the same. It’s accomplished Moghul court cooking with some pan-Indian influences: fine-minced seekh kebabs with tangy mint relish; the sort of chicken tikka and ochre-coloured, gingery bhuna gosht that reminds you how special these often bastardised dishes can be; and unusual items, such as baingan mirchi ka salan, quartered baby aubergines with peanut and tamarind sauce. Everything else that appears on the table, from the folded popadoms and dainty chutneys to steaming breads, are excellent.
On special occasions, for which the flatteringly lit, elegantly neutral room is made, go à la carte for the likes of saffron lobster and aromatic spiced seafood. To paraphrase D:Ream, things couldn’t get much better.
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